In the very touristy area of Noga square in Yaffo, it is easy to end up eating at a tourist trap. Gemma stands out for serving the largest portions around and offering an extensive choice of Italian specialities such as vegetable antipasti, pasta, risotto, fish and excellent pizza. There are a few lovely surprises such as the panzanella salad, a very successful version of a classic dish, or the Jaffa fish tartar, an enormous dish which we eat down to the very last bite. The quality is faultless. The only thing missing is a tad more creativity in the desserts to take things to the next level.